Choosing a pearl comes down to four things: luster, surface quality, shape, and type. A high-quality pearl reflects light sharply rather than looking chalky or dull, has a mostly smooth surface, and holds its shape consistently from every angle. Everything else — size, color, price — is really a matter of personal taste once those four fundamentals are in place.

At Un. Even, we sketch and hand-finish every pearl piece in our Venice, California studio, so we spend a lot of time sourcing pearls that meet this standard before they ever reach a design. Here's what we look for, and what you should look for too.

What Makes a Pearl "Good Quality"?

Luster: the single most important factor

Luster is the sharpness and depth of light reflecting off the pearl's surface. Hold a pearl up to a light source — a high-luster pearl will show a bright, almost mirror-like reflection with a clear edge. A low-luster pearl looks more like a matte white bead, with a soft, hazy glow instead of a defined reflection.

If you remember one thing from this guide, make it this: luster matters more than size. A smaller pearl with excellent luster will always look more luxurious than a larger pearl with poor luster.

Surface quality

Natural pearls form with minor surface characteristics — this is part of what makes them organic rather than manufactured. What you're checking for is the degree of these marks. Look for pearls that are clean and smooth to the eye at a normal viewing distance (roughly arm's length). Small, non-visible imperfections are normal and not a quality concern; deep pits, cracks, or heavy chalkiness are.

Shape

Round is the most classic and typically most valuable shape, but it's far from the only beautiful option:

• Round — the traditional, symmetrical shape most people picture
• Baroque — irregular, organic shapes with unique character; increasingly popular for modern, less-formal jewelry
• Button — flattened on one side, often used in earrings and rings
• Drop/teardrop — elongated, a favorite for pendants and dangle earrings

Baroque pearls in particular have become a signature look in modern minimalist jewelry, precisely because their asymmetry feels more organic and less "produced" than a perfectly round pearl.

Color and overtone

Pearls range from classic white and cream to silver, pink, and gold body tones, often with a secondary overtone (a subtle sheen of pink, green, or blue) visible in certain light. Neither is more "correct" — this is purely about what complements your skin tone and the metal you're pairing it with. Cooler overtones tend to pair beautifully with sterling silver; warmer overtones tend to sing next to gold-filled pieces.

Freshwater vs. Akoya vs. Tahitian vs. South Sea Pearls

Freshwater pearls are cultivated in mussels, mostly in Chinese freshwater lakes and ponds. They're the most widely available and affordable option, come in a huge range of shapes and colors, and modern freshwater pearls can reach very high luster — the quality gap with saltwater pearls has narrowed enormously over the last two decades.

Akoya pearls are saltwater pearls from Japan and China, prized for their consistently round shape and sharp, mirror-like luster. They tend to run smaller (typically 6–8mm) and command a higher price point than freshwater.

Tahitian pearls are naturally dark — ranging from charcoal to peacock green to deep aubergine — and are cultivated in French Polynesia. They're a striking choice for anyone wanting something outside the classic white-pearl look.

South Sea pearls are the largest and among the most valuable pearls, cultivated in Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines. Their size and thick nacre give them a warm, almost glowing luster.

For most everyday and gift jewelry, freshwater pearls offer the best balance of quality, versatility, and price — which is why they're the pearl we reach for most often in made-to-order pieces.

How to Check Pearl Quality Before You Buy

1. Roll it gently between your fingers. Genuine pearls often have very slight surface irregularities and a faint gritty texture, while imitation pearls tend to feel perfectly smooth and glassy.
2. Check the drill hole. On a genuine pearl, the nacre coating is usually visible at the hole; imitation pearls often reveal a solid bead underneath.
3. Compare luster in natural light, not just under a store's warm lighting.
4. Ask about the source — a maker who can tell you where and how a pearl was cultivated is a good sign they're paying attention to quality throughout.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are freshwater pearls real pearls?

Yes. Freshwater pearls are genuine, cultured pearls grown inside mussels, not imitations. They differ from saltwater pearls (Akoya, Tahitian, South Sea) in the mollusk and environment used to grow them, not in authenticity.

What is the most important factor in pearl quality?

Luster — the sharpness and brightness of light reflected from the pearl's surface — is generally considered the most important quality factor, ahead of size, shape, or color.

Do pearls need special care?

Yes. Pearls are softer than most gemstones and can be damaged by perfume, lotion, and sweat. Apply cosmetics before putting on pearl jewelry, wipe pearls with a soft cloth after wearing, and store them separately from other jewelry to avoid scratching.

What's the difference between a real pearl and a fake one?

Genuine pearls have subtle surface irregularities and a visible nacre layer at the drill hole, while imitation pearls are typically perfectly smooth glass or plastic beads coated to look pearlescent.

Un. even designs pearl jewelry in Venice, California — sketched, sourced, and hand-finished to order.